Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Teotihuacan

Last week, I saw the Teotihuacan near Mexico City for the first time. Incredibly impressive. However, while climbing the pyramids, one is obsessed by the obvious question: what was it that ruined the fantastic culture 1250 years ago? Lack of democracy, and overexploitation of natural resources, suggests Guide Michelin. Unsustainable development, we'd say.

The majestic site is filled, absolutely filled with local vendors trying to sell the cheapest stuff to passers-by. They approach you in a determined manner with their merchandise, "one peso only". Puzzling. Should you stop at each and every one and politely say no-thank-you? Or grab your purse and look for coins that you don't have? Or do you try to run away, change the pace and direction of your steps - and feel ashamed, and frustrated that your thoughts are constantly distracted from the PLACE, where you'll probably never return.

On the way back to the city we pass the vast informal settlements that creep upwards on the hills like a grey carpet. The huts must house millions of people that have settled "informally", and will gain ownership of their plot after five years of occupancy. I'm wondering how many are connected to water or energy networks. Are there any schools or any medical care? A bus to the city from these contemporary pyramids?

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